Boston Phoenix

2003 Restaurant Awards!

As usual, 2003 was a year that confounded all my expectations. In particular, I was surprised by the overall good level of new restaurants. Reviewing Saint, Ten Tables, the revived Ritz-Carlton Dining Room, Quotes, Teatro, UpStairs on the Square, Bambara, Flux, Meritage, Somalia (alas), Great Bay, Birch Street Bistro, Arbor, Peking Tom's, the revived Rustic Kitchen, Epiphany, Ariadne, Red House, Istanbul Cafe, Elements (alas), Dalia's, Yan's Best Place, Union, and Excelsior was not a difficult job, especially in a year in which I also caught up to Carmen, Craigie Street Bistrot, Tea Tray in the Sky (alas), Jake and Earl's Dixie Roadhouse, Via Matta, the Vault (alas), and Figlia. While the truly amazing platters are still rare enough to savor, the average level of competence in new restaurants seems higher than ever.

Most comfortable restaurant: Ariadne. A very fine restaurant with superior service and a lack of loud-bar noise.

Runner-up: Union Bar and Grille, which is loud, but less so and more comfortable than any other South End restaurant, and, again, very good food overall.

Best ice cream: basil ice cream served as a garnish on a lemon tart at Union Bar and Grille.

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