Panorama
January 13, 2004

Making A Scene - Union Bar and Grille

By Christopher Wallenberg

You know that an up-and-coming neighborhood is officially "hip" when a tony restaurant like Union Bar and Grille opens its doors. For the Washington Street corridor in the South EndÑdubbed SoWa (for "south of Washington") by savvy real estate agents--the arrival of Union has upped the ante for this voguish area. Sure, Pho Republique and Caffe Umbra have long attracted loyal patrons from near and far, but Union is the enclave's first full-fledged "destination" hotspot. Helmed by Seth Woods, Matt Burns and Jeffrey Gates of the Aquitaine Group (Metropolis Cafe, Aquitaine), this swank American bistro is an instant classic, presenting high-quality, accessible food in a chic yet understated atmosphere. Diners enter through a sleek, yellow-tinted glass vestibule and are greeted by a welcoming staff led by the effervescent Gates, one of the most respected managers in the city. The interior features lustrous black leather banquettes, gleaming pinewood floors and wrought iron-style chandeliers. The kitchen churns out everything from comfort food like the Reuben sandwich and a beef and sausage burger to sublime entrees like grilled poussin stuffed with sausage and cornbread. The $10K tuna-seared, sushi-quality fish in a roasted tomato vinaigrette--comes from a recipe that won chef Stephen Sherman $10,000 in a contest when he was a student at the Culinary Institute of America. That's just one award-winning dish in a restaurant sure to garner a host of its own laurels.

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